Cu Lao Cham: the island that has banned plastic bags since 2009, and they really did it

Cu Lao Cham is an archipelago of eight islands located about 15 kilometers from the Dai River estuary (Hoi An) by sea. The largest island is Hon Lao, which is also the only place where people live permanently. In 2009, UNESCO recognized this location as a World Biosphere Reserve.

Also starting in 2009, the island commune rolled out the policy of "saying no to plastic bags." It sounds like a slogan, but the approach was quite concrete: checking luggage right at the ferry pier, handing out paper bags and baskets as replacements, and persuading every household and every shop on the island one by one.

And what's worth mentioning is that it really became a habit. People coming to the island are now used to being reminded at the pier, and the vendors on the island are used to using banana leaves and newspaper. This is one of the few cases in Vietnam where an environmental regulation has been maintained long enough to become a habit, rather than just a one-off campaign.

On the island there is also Hai Tang Pagoda, built in the 18th century, once a place where merchant ships stopped to pray for safety before setting out to sea — a trace showing that Cu Lao Chao once lay on a maritime trade route connected to the port of Hoi An. The waters around the island are also where the Cù Lao Chàm shipwreck was discovered, carrying a large quantity of 15th-century Chu Đậu ceramics — one of the largest underwater archaeological excavations ever conducted in Vietnam.

If going:

Season: ships run reliably from about March to September. During the rough sea season (around October–February), sailings are often suspended, and the suspension can happen suddenly, according to border guard notices. • Boat: a speedboat takes about 20–30 minutes, while a wooden boat is much slower but smoother. If you get seasick, choose the wooden boat and sit in the middle of the cabin. • Do not bring plastic bags. Prepare a cloth bag or container from the mainland. • There is a visiting fee and a guest list must be declared — if you go on a tour, the operator will take care of it; if you go individually, you must do it yourself at the pier.

The tour operators for Cù Lao Chàm on VietSpots are pinned below. A day trip is enough; if you want to stay overnight, you need to ask in advance because overnight stays on the island are limited.