Long bike ride of about 80 km in search of sardines (written by Ho)

Phú Quốc (Đảo Phú Quốc), a remote island of Vietnam. A small island floating in the Gulf of Thailand. Right near Cambodia. If you go by motorbike, you can circle the whole island in about a day — a little island of less than 130 km around. My husband Sei traveled here by motorbike with his best friend four years ago. He's come on company trips too... all in all, four times now... Just how much does he love Phú Quốc? He's a total veteran... and yet he says he makes new discoveries every time he comes. This is my second time. Last year I caught a cold right before the trip and was in terrible shape, so I couldn't get around as much as I wanted to... This time I won't mess up — I arrived in perfect condition! The one thing I absolutely want to eat in Phú Quốc is sardine dishes. You can savor small, fresh sardines that look as if they were prepared by hand... a dish unique to Vietnam! Last year I ate it at a seafood specialty restaurant in Phú Quốc town. It was delicious, truly. This time I was after something even more delicious — or rather, a greater deliciousness that includes the scenery too. And so, we set off on a rental motorbike at 7:30. Breakfast, skipped.

Locals are lining up at the gas station. It has such a cool atmosphere. I wonder what they put in those iron baskets... While I was staring, the bike was refilled. Now, let's head north!! The roads in Phu Quoc are very simple. There's a main road that goes all the way around the island (about 120km, I think). Actually, it feels like many parts are still being developed, and roads have only just been completed... My husband is so impressed that the roads that were red dirt the year before last have now been paved with asphalt~~~ But once you head a bit inland, it's all red dirt. It's so bumpy, my bottom hurts... Bouncing around and bracing myself is all part of the fun of the drive. Our destination is... Starfish Beach, a coastline with white sand where starfish live. It's said to be very beautiful. (Though I didn't see any starfish; food was the priority!) However... the journey here is quite hard. Very few people come by motorbike... It's either locals or real daredevils (or the unplanned ones). I think coming by taxi is safer and more relaxing, haha. Since it's a shallow beach, some people are swimming... but unfortunately, the weather was bad that/that day. Strong winds!!! Actually, it was a gale!! The sea is blue, but the whitecaps are sharp. In the midst of all this, what we, a couple in our late 40s/early 50s, are aiming for is... a delicious dish...

This is a restaurant located under the sea! And the only way to get there is... nothing but a handmade, makeshift bridge with no handrails.

For some reason, on this day, there was a windstorm so fierce it felt like my body would get swept away just standing still. B-b-being blown awaaay~~~ falling~~~ Even while gripped by that fear, I press on, thinking... it's all worth it for something delicious.

And on top of that, my husband Sei goes and picks a bridge that's like something off an athletic playground... one with ups and downs... why? Off my husband toddles along. Aaahhhh~~~~ I'm getting left behind~~~ There's nothing to do but keep going, so I tuck my iPhone into my bag and, planting each step firmly, firmly, onward I go. Just as I expected, we're the only ones crossing the plank bridge that isn't the straight one. But waiting for us at the end was...

Fish are swimming leisurely in the live-fish tank. And there's a huge menu to choose from... Ta-da-da-daaa~~~!

The one I was after... Sardines tossed with coconut, onion, and herbs. The combo of coconut flakes and fresh sardines is absolutely perfect! And you don't eat it just like this... (The real deal is menu-worthy, no, even better than that!) Square rice paper, lettuce, and herbs come out heaped on a separate plate, so you pile the sardines generously, chunk after chunk, onto the rice paper.

There are probably more than 20 sardine fillets packed in here. Along with slices of mild, non-spicy onion and chopped herbs too. Coconut flakes are mingled in, and there are chopped peanuts as well.

Add a little sweet-and-spicy sauce on top, then wrap it in the rice paper. If you wait a little while (about 2 minutes) until it becomes moist, it will feel more unified with the rice paper.

The moist, tender texture unique to fresh spring rolls. Oh my, how delicious this is・・・ This is what I came here for, this is it, it was worth coming! The amount of sardines is just insane... truly delicious!! Pairing sardines with onions makes sense as a salad・・・ but the part where they mix it with balsamic or vinegar, in Phu Quoc they pair it with coconut flakes!! It's not a marinade! Whoever invented this is a geniu~s. And on top of that, it was more than the two of us could finish, and the price? Just 200,000 VND = 1,000 yen! In Japan it'd be 2,500 yen? 3,000 yen? Even more in Tokyo??? 【A correction here】 All this time I kept writing on and on sardine sardine sardine Well, ummm—— actually, the fish is・・・ not a sardine!! Apparently it's herring. Gỏi = to toss/mix or to wrap cá trích = the fish herring And I can't even tell the difference in taste between herring and sardines,,,, yet here I am, going on and on so pompously. How utterly embarrassing.

We also had grilled sea urchin, with a little squirt of lime salt on top. One piece, 30,000 VND = 150 yen. This place is heaven, isn't it? I don't quite know why, but it's a winner! Having finally arrived through the raging winds, the taste was truly moving. Personally... this is a dish that ranks quite high in my whole life. What a wonderful floating restaurant on the sea — thank you for the feast! Well then, the strong-wind, sore-bottom drive still goes on and on. Migrant Life Ranking