Da Nang has forests for hiking, but not every trail is one you should step onto

Few cities have forests right on their doorstep like Da Nang. A short ride from the city center and you're already under the shade of Son Tra's trees, while to the north lies the entire Hai Van mountain range. But this summer has shown that the forests here are not as gentle as they look.

Son Tra is a special-use forest

In the early hours of August 3, a young man walking into the Dâu forest on the peninsula was caught in heavy rain, darkness fell, and he got lost. Rescuers found him a little after 3 a.m., while he was sheltering from the rain in the middle of the forest. Five days later, a group of six people hiked out to Mui Nghe Cape to take photos, and three young women were swept out to sea by the waves. One person was rescued by a navy ship after drifting for many hours, while the other two remain missing.

Following those incidents, the Son Tra Peninsula Management Board reiterated something that many people overlook. Son Tra is a special-use forest, and this nature reserve has not yet had an ecotourism plan approved. This means that any self-organized trekking or wildlife-watching tour entering the forest area is against the regulations. The trails leading down to Hục Lỡ, Mũi Nghê, and Bãi Đá Đen are strictly prohibited.

Three routes are permitted for travel

Visitors to Son Tra can explore three sightseeing routes: Tien Sa – Suoi Om – Ban Co Peak, Ban Co Peak – Bai Bac, and the Bai Bac junction – the Heritage Banyan Tree. The final route is for pedestrians only, and it's also the section that comes closest to a real forest-trekking experience while still staying within the regulations. Walk slowly and look up at the tree canopy, and you might spot red-shanked douc langurs eating leaves high above.

These routes are temporarily closed during bad weather. In early October, the peninsula stopped welcoming visitors for nearly a week due to heavy rain. So, before heading up the mountain, you should check the latest announcements from the Management Board.

If you want a real forest trek, head over to the Hai Van side.

Anyone who wants a true jungle trek, with streams to wade through and slopes to climb, should look toward the northwest of the city. The former Hòa Bắc commune, now part of Hải Vân ward, is a mountainous area along the upper reaches of the Cu Đê River. In the two villages of Tà Lang and Giàn Bí, the Cơ Tu people have been running community-based tourism for many years. In the community, there is a group that specializes in guiding visitors on long-distance treks into the forest, following the streams upward to the rapids and waterfalls.

The biggest difference lies in the guide. Going with a local who knows the forest trails means you don't have to find your own way by following a line on a map on your phone. It is also a livelihood that helps protect the forest: when local people can make a living from visitors who come to see the forest, they have even more reason to keep the forest intact. Central Vietnam is currently in the middle of the rainy season, so streams can rise quickly and the rocks are more slippery than in the dry season. If you want to go now, be sure to ask your guide carefully about the water level before setting off.

Wherever you go, always remember

Bring a fully charged phone and a power bank. Don't go into the forest during thunderstorms or thick fog, especially at night. If you get lost, stay calm, don't go any deeper, and call the authorities right away. That is the advice from the Son Tra Ward Police after a night spent searching for a missing person in Dau Forest.

The forests of Da Nang are still there for anyone who wants to step inside; you just need to choose a trail that has already been opened and have someone go with you. And if you just want to admire the forest from above, Hai Van Pass is still a beautiful route for a ride.

Photos: Christophe95, Phương Huy, Christopher Crouzet (Wikimedia Commons); Xuân Quỳnh (SGGP).