[Tibet Shigatse] Sunrise at Everest, Ancient Monasteries in Tsang, and a Slow Journey Through Shigatse — A Day Walking Back from the Roof of the World to the Human World

The itinerary for this Tibet journey is — however we came, that's how we return. So today's route follows the same mountain road we came in on, heading back from Everest Base Camp to Shigatse. In the morning, we waited for the sunrise over Everest in the freezing wind of -10°C; in the afternoon, we walked into Tashilhunpo Monastery, the most important religious center in Tsang (Back Tibet). After yesterday's breathtaking natural scenery, today's pace is much calmer, yet it brings our focus back to Tibetan culture and faith. 🗓 Today's Itinerary Sunrise at Everest Base Camp → Descending from the transit station → Lunch in Lhatse County → Tashilhunpo Monastery (the largest monastery in Ü-Tsang/Rear Tibet) → Strolling around Shigatse city & Tibetan dinner Sunrise over Everest: An imperfect, yet memorable light At 7:50 in the morning, we agreed to go watch the sunrise together. What's strange is—in Taiwan, watching the sunrise means waking up at three or four in the morning, but at the foot of Everest, the sky was still almost completely dark even at seven. I got up first and walked to the restroom, and looking up, the sky was still full of stars. By the time I went back to my room to finish gearing up and stepped outside again, Although to the naked eye it still looks like the middle of the night, once the camera captures light, the sky has already quietly begun to brighten.

Outside, it's a bone-chilling -10°C. Mount Everest stands quietly in the distance, as if waiting for the first ray of light.

I set up my tripod on the observation deck boardwalk, ready to shoot a time-lapse. Today's sunrise time is 8:19. Yesterday, the golden light hit Everest on the right side of the peak, but today the sunlight would come in from the left. After eight o'clock, the sharp ridge and slope on the left side of Everest were the first to be tinted with golden light. I thought the golden glow would gradually spread across the whole mountain, but ten minutes, twenty minutes passed… and still only that small patch remained lit. I glanced to the side, and the surrounding mountains were already covered in golden light. I felt a bit of regret in my heart— it was probably just the angle; today, that's simply how Everest lit up.

But to be able to stand beneath the roof of the world and wait for the sunrise is already a rare piece of good fortune.

On the way back, we passed by the world's highest altitude temple - Rongbu Temple. We only took photos from outside and didn't go inside.

Base Camp breakfast: not much choice, but surprisingly delicious Since we had to set off at nine, we rushed back to camp to eat breakfast. The dishes were simple: Preserved radish, fried egg, fa gao (steamed rice cake), cabbage, and rice porridge. We figured, "as long as it fills our stomachs, that's fine," but it turned out every single dish was far more delicious than expected — especially the high-mountain cabbage, which was so sweet and crisp.

Farewell to Everest Base Camp: winding back along the mountain road to Tsang. At nine o'clock sharp, we boarded the shuttle bus once more to head down the mountain. After returning to the transfer station, we switched back to the tour agency's coach. Most of today was spent driving back to Shigatse. Since we had already taken photos at both mountain passes yesterday, today we headed straight back without stopping. We had lunch at the same restaurant as yesterday, but the entire menu had been changed — clearly they put a lot of thought into it. We arrived back in Shigatse at 4:30 in the afternoon, getting ready to visit the most important religious landmark of Tsang — Tashilhunpo Monastery (Zhaxi Lhünbo Monastery).

Tashilhunpo Monastery: Residence of the Panchen Lama × The Largest Monastery in Ü-Tsang (Back Tibet) Tashilhunpo Monastery is the largest monastery in Ü-Tsang (Back Tibet, i.e. Tsang), and it is also the seat of the successive Panchen Lamas. If the Potala Palace symbolizes Front Tibet (Ü), then this place is the spiritual center of Back Tibet (Tsang). At the entrance, our guide Brother Yong first gave us an overview of the overall layout:

📌 Five Major Architectural Highlights of Tashilhunpo Monastery • Qangchen: Enshrines a 26-meter-tall Jampa Buddha (Maitreya Buddha) • Three Golden-Roofed Stupas: The combined funerary stupas of the 10th, 4th, and 5th through 9th Panchen Lamas • Labrang: The residence of the Panchen Lama upon returning to Tibet • Tsokchen Assembly Hall: Enshrines a solid gold Shakyamuni Buddha statue • Dratsang: The monastic residential area, featuring a vast expanse of white buildings Additionally, it also houses the largest Tibetan medicine hospital in Ü-Tsang.

We entered through the monks' quarters area, and along the way there were typical Tibetan-style buildings. Along the way, we came across the traditional "lamp-wick tree," which the ancient Tibetans would crush the branches of to use as wicks for butter lamps.

Jampa Buddha Hall, the Tenth Stupa, the Fourth Stupa Our first stop is the Jampa Buddha Hall (photography is not allowed). Outside the hall, the ground is inlaid with turquoise arranged into a Buddhist emblem, which is truly special.

Next, we headed to the Tenth Panchen Lama Stupa, where photos are allowed — this became the first stupa photo of the trip.

The ground in front of the hall is paved with turquoise in a pattern depicting full prostration (five-body-cast-to-ground).

Since the monastery closes at six o'clock, it was already getting dark by the time we visited, but the monks kindly and thoughtfully let us look around and finish our visit in full. The Fourth [reincarnation]'s Stupa - Qukangji

Stupas of the 5th to 9th [Dalai Lamas] × Cultural Revolution Stories × the Golden-Roofed Ladrang Before reaching the joint burial stupa, you will pass by the golden-exteriored Ladrang, which symbolizes power and also brings to mind the Potala Palace.

The tour guide shared a story from the Cultural Revolution period: most of the stupas were destroyed, but the 4th Panchen Lama's stupa, because its status was too important, was disguised by monks as a grain warehouse and thus preserved. After the 10th Panchen Lama returned to Tibet, he gathered the remains and rebuilt a joint stupa for the 5th through 9th Panchen Lamas, but he too passed away not long after, worn out from overwork. Exterior of the stupa for the 5th to 9th Panchen Lamas.

Tsuglagkhang: Sky Burial Site × Victory Banner × Monks' Evening Prayer We finally arrived at Tsuglagkhang. The monks were chanting sutras, so we listened to the guide's introduction outside first. When we entered the hall, the guide reminded us to pay attention to the black stone beneath our feet in the middle of the hall — that was the site of the sky burial platform from back then. Outside the hall, at the debate courtyard, there are two highlights: Jiang Zemin's inscription "Protect the Nation, Benefit the People" And the Victory Banner: a symbol of the early Buddhist victory over the Bon religion in scriptural debate, which still bears the hair from monks' tonsure ceremonies.

The entire tour takes about 2.5 hours.

Nighttime in Shigatse: Tibetan food, warm tea, and the warmth of the city After returning to the hotel to drop off our luggage, we went for a walk around the city. Mom bought some souvenirs at "Snacks Are Calling.

Dinner was at a Tibetan restaurant, where thick curtains blocked the cold wind, while the interior was warm and full of atmosphere. We ordered four main dishes, and the restaurant also treated us to jasmine tea — for four people, it only came to 65 RMB. Both the price and the taste were a wonderful surprise.

Returned to the hotel just after 9 PM to organize our luggage and prepare for rest. Tomorrow marks the journey back to Lhasa. Summary: Descending from the roof of the world, returning to the rhythm of life. While today wasn't as breathtaking as yesterday, it brought a deeper and more complete dimension to our journey. The magnificence of nature inspires awe, the serenity of religion brings understanding, and the warmth of everyday life draws us closer to this land. Tomorrow, we will continue our way toward Lhasa, writing the final chapter of this Tibetan journey.