[Tibet Shigatse] Sunrise at Everest, Ancient Monasteries of Tsang, and a Slow Journey Through Shigatse — A Day Walking Back from the Roof of the World to the Human World

The route plan for this Tibet journey is: however we came, that's how we go back. So today's itinerary follows the same mountain road we came in on, heading back from Mount Everest Base Camp to Shigatse. In the morning, we waited for the sunrise over Everest in a bitter wind of -10°C; in the afternoon, we stepped into Tashilhunpo Monastery, the most important religious center in Tsang (Back Tibet). After yesterday's breathtaking natural scenery, today's pace is much calmer, bringing our attention back to Tibetan culture and faith. 🗓 Today's Itinerary Sunrise at Everest Base Camp → Descend the mountain from the transfer station → Lunch in Lhatse County → Tashilhunpo Monastery (the largest monastery in Tsang/Back Tibet) → Stroll around Shigatse city & Tibetan dinner Sunrise at Everest: Not perfect, but a light worth remembering At 7:50 in the morning, we agreed to go watch the sunrise. The strange thing is—in Taiwan, to see the sunrise you have to get up at three or four in the morning, but at the foot of Mount Everest, it's still almost completely dark at seven. I got up first and walked to the restroom, and when I looked up, the sky was still full of stars. When I went back to my room to grab the rest of my gear and stepped out again, Although to the naked eye it still looks like the dead of night, the moment the camera lets in light, the sky has quietly begun to brighten.

Outside, it's a bone-chilling -10°C. Everest stands silently in the distance, as if waiting for the first ray of light.

I had set up my tripod on the viewing platform walkway, ready to begin recording a time-lapse. Today's sunrise was at 8:19. Yesterday, the golden light of sunset illuminated Mount Everest from the right side, but today the sunlight would come from the left. After eight o'clock, the sharp peak on Mount Everest's left side and the mountainside were first bathed in golden light. I had thought the golden glow would continue spreading, but ten minutes passed, then twenty minutes... yet only that small area remained bright. When I looked around, the surrounding mountains were all covered in golden light. There was a hint of disappointment in my heart—it was probably because of the angle; today Mount Everest was simply illuminated this way.

But being able to stand beneath the roof of the world and wait for the sunrise is already a rare stroke of fortune.

On the way back, we will pass by the world's highest-altitude temple — Rongbuk Monastery. We only took photos outside and did not go inside.

Base camp breakfast: not many choices, but surprisingly delicious Since we had to set off at nine, we rushed back to camp to eat breakfast. The dishes were very simple: Preserved radish, fried egg, fa gao (rice cake), cabbage, and rice porridge. We figured, "as long as it fills the stomach, that's fine," but to our surprise, everything was more delicious than expected — especially the high-mountain cabbage, so sweet and crisp.

Farewell to Everest Base Camp: Returning to Back Tibet Along the Winding Mountain Roads At nine o'clock sharp, we boarded the shuttle bus again to head down the mountain. After returning to the transfer station, we switched back to the travel agency's coach. Most of today was spent on the road, driving back to Shigatse. Since we had already taken photos at both mountain passes yesterday, today we headed straight back without stopping. We had lunch at the same restaurant as yesterday, but the entire menu had been changed — they really put thought into it. We arrived back in Shigatse at 4:30 in the afternoon, getting ready to visit the most central religious landmark of Back Tibet — Tashilhunpo Monastery.

Tashilhunpo Monastery: The Seat of the Panchen Lama × The Largest Monastery in Tsang Tashilhunpo Monastery is the largest monastery in Tsang (Back Tibet), and it has also been the seat of the successive Panchen Lamas. If the Potala Palace symbolizes Ü (Front Tibet), then this place is the spiritual center of Tsang (Back Tibet). At the entrance, our guide Brother Yong first gave us an overview of the overall layout:

📌 Five Architectural Highlights of Tashilhunpo Monastery • Jamkhang: Enshrines a 26-meter-tall statue of Jampa Buddha (Maitreya Buddha) • Three Golden-Roofed Stupas: The joint burial stupas of the 10th, 4th, and 5th-to-9th Panchen Lamas • Labrang: The residence used by the Panchen Lama upon returning to Tibet • Coqen Hall: Enshrines a pure gold statue of Shakyamuni Buddha • Zhacang: The monks' residential quarters, a vast expanse of white buildings In addition, this site also houses the largest Tibetan medicine hospital in Back Tibet (Tsang region).

We entered through the monks' quarters, and the whole way was lined with typical Tibetan-style buildings. Along the way, we came across the traditional "wick tree," whose branches ancient Tibetans would crush and use as wicks for butter lamps.

Jampa Buddha Hall, the Tenth Stupa, and the Fourth Stupa Our first stop is the Jampa Buddha Hall (photography is not allowed). On the ground outside the hall, turquoise stones are arranged to form a Buddhist symbol, which is truly unique.

Next, we'll head to the Tenth Panchen Lama's Stupa, where you can take photos —

The ground in front of the hall is paved with turquoise, forming a pattern of full-body prostration.

Since the temple closes at six, it was already getting dark by the time we visited, but the monks were still thoughtful enough to let us see everything in full. The Fourth's Stupa - Choekhang Gyi

The 5th–9th Dalai Lama Stupas × Cultural Revolution Stories × The Golden-Roofed Ladrang Before reaching the joint burial stupa, you will pass by the golden-exteriored Ladrang, which symbolizes power and also brings to mind the Potala Palace.

The tour guide shared a story from the era of the Cultural Revolution: Most stupas suffered destruction, but the stupa of the 4th Panchen Lama, because its status was too important, was disguised by monks as a grain warehouse and thus preserved. After the 10th Panchen Lama returned to Tibet, he gathered the remains and rebuilt them into a joint stupa for the 5th through 9th Panchen Lamas, but he too, due to overwork, passed into nirvana not long after. Exterior of the stupa for the 5th through 9th Panchen Lamas.

Tsochen Main Hall: Sky Burial Platform Site × Victory Banner Pole × Monks' Evening Chanting We finally arrived at Tsochen Main Hall. The monks were chanting sutras, so we first listened to the guide's introduction outside. When entering the hall, the guide reminded us to pay attention to the black stone underfoot in the middle of the hall — that was once the site of the sky burial platform. Outside the main hall, at the sutra debate ground, there are two highlights to see: Jiang Zemin's inscription "Protect the Nation, Benefit the People" The Victory Banner Pole: symbolizing the victory of early Buddhism over the Bon religion in scriptural debate, on which the hair from monks' tonsure ceremonies still remains.

The entire tour takes about 2.5 hours.

Nighttime in Shigatse: Tibetan cuisine, warm tea, and the city's warmth After returning to the hotel and putting down our luggage, we went for a walk around the city. Mom bought some souvenirs at "Lingshi Youming" snack shop.

Dinner was at a Tibetan restaurant, with a heavy curtain blocking the cold wind, while the interior was warm and full of atmosphere. We ordered four main dishes, and the restaurant even treated us to jasmine tea. It only cost 65 RMB for four people—both the price and the taste were a wonderful surprise.

Around nine at night, we returned to the hotel to pack our bags and get ready to rest. Tomorrow will be the journey back to Lhasa. Summary: Coming down from the roof of the world, back into the rhythm of everyday life. Though today wasn't as shocking as yesterday, it added a more complete layer to the journey. The grandeur of nature inspires awe, the tranquility of religion brings understanding, and the warmth of daily life brings us closer to this land. Tomorrow, we will continue on toward Lhasa, writing the final chapter of this Tibetan journey.